Saturday, June 23, 2012
Circuit Judge
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Using Gunpowder
Some books that should be on a reloaders' shelf
Gunpowder
The powder that you put in the case is the
fuel that propels the bullet out the barrel. As such it requires some thought
before selecting the correct powder for your application. When referring to loading ammo powder weight
is measured in grains. So a grain is a unit of measure not one piece of powder.
It takes 7,000 grains to make a LB. so a grain might not sound like much but
lets put it in prospective. If your reloading manual indicates that 5 grains is
max, then what harm will 1 grain extra do? If you add 1 grain to that 5 then
you have a 20% over charge which may very well destroy your gun. Those manuals
are printed for a reason and if you try and become cute that can cause you some
grief.
What you see when looking up a load
There are three types of powders available to
the reloader. They are ball, flake and extruded. Ball powder has an advantage
in that it meters very well and can be used in handgun, shotgun and rifle ammo.
Flake powders are generally used in handguns and shotguns. They can also be
used in some rifle applications. It meters reasonably well and if you keep your
measure nearly full and tap the side occasionally it helps in the consistency.
Extruded powders are generally for rifles though there are a few for handguns
and shotguns. Sometimes the coarser ones will bridge in a measure. That means
that one load may have very little powder while the next one may have a double
charge though that would probably
overfill the case and spill on the table. That is one of the many reasons to
pay strict attention to what you are doing.
Proper storage of powder is important. It can
go bad after some years especially if stored where temperatures are excessive.
It should be stored in a cool dry place away from any heat source. If you buy
old powder at a yard sale be very cautious before using it. If you see a red
dust scrap it. A sour smell might be another indication of defective powder. If
you use it that way results can be unpredictable and dangerous. Your best bet
is to dispose of it in a safe manner. Fresh powder is cheaper then gun and body
parts. Modern powders are not meant to
explode though under certain conditions that can happen, usually with severe
consequences. When you fire a gun the
powder burns at a rapid rate rather then explode. The rate is controlled by
various factors such as the coating and size of the grains. There are various
mixtures employed by powder makers to control the burn rate. That is why there
are so many powders available and it is imperative that you select the correct
ones for your particular application. For instance if you take a 30-06 case and
fill it with pistol powder and shoot it disaster is imminent. The handgun
powder which is way too fast for a rifle case so it will burn so quickly that
the bullet won’t have a chance to move down the barrel, hence a blowup. Be sure
you read the label on the container and don’t put powders in a incorrectly
labeled can. Do not mix powders as that is a recipe for disaster. There would be no way to predict what will
happen but it won’t be good.
When you
select a powder for reloading a certain cartridge always go to one of
the reloading manuals. You should have at least one, preferably more. It will let you know how much and what kind to
use. Do not exceed the max loads. Most manuals list from 10 to 15 selections for
each load. The reloading manuals are
available at any gun store plus online such as Amazon and Barnes. All of your
bullet and powder makers produce them
and they are all good. Examples are the Hodgdon, Sierra, Speer, Nosler, Barnes
and Hornady. It doesn’t hurt to have all of them.
Monday, June 11, 2012
Hawke Scopes
Model 70 in 7mm-08 mated well with Hawke Scope
Hawke Scopes
For over 30 years Hawke Sport Optics, the leading optics supplier in Europe, has been providing innovative, benefit rich products to sporting men and women in over 40 countries around the world. While still relatively new to the North American marketplace, Hawke has proven to have the staying power to become a force in sport optics in the
Hawke offers a complete line of sport optics. From rifle, crossbow, shotgun, black powder, and air gun scopes, to binoculars, spotting scopes, and accessories, Hawke is sure to have a product to suit your individual shooting, hunting, or viewing needs. For more info on their extensive line of fine products you can go to http://www.hawkeoptics.com/ You can buy their products through a local dealer or buy directly from them. You can go to their site to find a nearby dealer which will allow you to physically examine the product.
Adjustments are easy to see and use
I received two scopes for testing. One is a
Hawke and Ruger American make a good combo
Part ll
I have a Knight rifle which has two barrels a 45-70 and a 50 caliber inline muzzle loading barrel. I plan on using the scope on both barrels. I mounted the scope and started with the 45-70 using some
The ladies found both the Hawke and Winchester model 70 in 7 mm-08 easy to use
The other scope is an Extreme View Riflescope model HK5160 IREV which is also a 3 X 9 X 40. It also has a red or blue reticle besides the usual black and they showed up very well against various backgrounds. That enables you have the best color for the shooting conditions you might encounter. I mounted it on a
I returned the Winchester 7 mm-08 so a new scope the HK 5164 3 X 9 was put on a Ruger American which is a new model released by that company. It is a low cost rifle and bears no resemblance to the model 77. Anyway the rifle performed very well and if you want more info you can go to www.rugerrifles.com. The caliber chosen is the 30-06 and of course the scope performed to expectations, meaning that it was flawless and easy to sight in. Since I plan on keeping the rifle the scope will also remain with it as it will be my main hunting rig. I would reccomend the Hawke Panorama EV HK5164 in 3 X 9 for general hunting use. I did switch scopes from rifle to rifle as part of my test. The Hawke scope responded well. Through use on several rifles the Hawke have earned my trust and will be going on various hunting trips. this scope has red and blue illumination and is water and shock proof, making it more hunter friendly.
Hawke, Knight and Black Hills Ammo all peformed well
I transferred the scope from the Knight to a Circuit Judge rifle. It is a novel firearm well worth looking into if you want a 410 gauge shotgun and a 45 Colt round. Since you can use it for woods hunting I thought that the Hawke scope would be perfect for it. I wasn’t disappointed It will extract all of the accuracy potential that this rifle is capable of. I shot some 305 grain hollow base bullets in this rifle and they produced excellent accuracy for this type of rifle. The Eclips 30 1.5 X 4 with its large dot and wide field of view is a perfect match for the Circuit Judge and similar firearms. For more info on the Circuit Judge you can go to http://www.taurususa.com/.
Flip ups to keep dust and moisture out
Thursday, June 7, 2012
Priming and Belling Cases
Large and Small Primers
Bullet in Case
Properly seated primer
Belled case
Priming and Belling the Cases
After the cases are sized and the primer
removed you are ready to put in a new primer and bell if necessary. Virtually
all straight cases and some bottleneck cases need to be belled or flared. This
allows the bullet to be seated without shaving the case or ruining it. If a
bullet catches the side it will pull part of the case down which will render
that round useless. Lead bullets need to be belled a little more then their jacketed
brethren. It should be flared enough so you can start the bullet in the case
but no more. Excessive belling will shorten the life of the case by causing
cracks at the mouth. If you are using lead bullets in rifles the case needs to
be belled to avoid shaving. Another downside to shaved bullets is loss of
accuracy. One side will be shaved which will cause the bullet to be off
balance.
Properly seated primer
Primers come in two sizes large and small.
Then they are broken down to rifle and handgun. To make things more interesting
there are magnum and standard primers. Let us say that you are loading 9 mm’s
for your Glock. The primer of choice is a small pistol. There are a couple of
reasons for that. First of all the pistol primer has the right amount of
compound to properly but not over ignite your powder charge. Also a rifle
primer is usually taller then the pistol so you will have difficulty properly
seating it. Remember is primer has to be flush with the case head or even a
thousands of an inch or two below to insure good feeding and ignition. While not common a primer that is protruding
can cause a slam fire. That happens when the bolt comes forward and ignites the
round before the action is completely closed. That, my friend will light you up
good and proper. While not common you
can have a residue buildup in your primer pocket. Excess residue will make
seating a primer more difficult but an inexpensive tool can clean them out very
easily. If you hear a crunch when seating a primer, that is a good indication
that the pocket needs cleaning.
Belled case
Depending on what type of set up you have you
can have a primer feed tool or do them one at a time which might not be a bad
way to start. There should be a certain amount of feel but if it is excessive
or too easy there is a problem of some sort. If you have military ammo there is
probably a crimp that has to be removed. For suck cases as a 9 I wouldn’t
bother as it is time consuming. There are tools that will press the crimp but I
never cared for those or you can carefully ream out the pocket. The only cases
I do that with are old 30-06’s that I plan on making blanks or light loads.
Anything else I just scrap. If the primer goes in too easy then the pocket
might be expanded as a result of firing heavy loads in the case. Max loads will
expand the primer pocket sometimes after only one firing. That is a clue to
back off on the powder charge. Shotgun primers generally come in one size
though there is a magnum version. At one time there was a smaller one used but
you seldom encounter them today. Priming
is a simple mechanical chore but not always easy.
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