Some books that should be on a reloaders' shelf
Gunpowder
The powder that you put in the case is the
fuel that propels the bullet out the barrel. As such it requires some thought
before selecting the correct powder for your application. When referring to loading ammo powder weight
is measured in grains. So a grain is a unit of measure not one piece of powder.
It takes 7,000 grains to make a LB. so a grain might not sound like much but
lets put it in prospective. If your reloading manual indicates that 5 grains is
max, then what harm will 1 grain extra do? If you add 1 grain to that 5 then
you have a 20% over charge which may very well destroy your gun. Those manuals
are printed for a reason and if you try and become cute that can cause you some
grief.
What you see when looking up a load
There are three types of powders available to
the reloader. They are ball, flake and extruded. Ball powder has an advantage
in that it meters very well and can be used in handgun, shotgun and rifle ammo.
Flake powders are generally used in handguns and shotguns. They can also be
used in some rifle applications. It meters reasonably well and if you keep your
measure nearly full and tap the side occasionally it helps in the consistency.
Extruded powders are generally for rifles though there are a few for handguns
and shotguns. Sometimes the coarser ones will bridge in a measure. That means
that one load may have very little powder while the next one may have a double
charge though that would probably
overfill the case and spill on the table. That is one of the many reasons to
pay strict attention to what you are doing.
Proper storage of powder is important. It can
go bad after some years especially if stored where temperatures are excessive.
It should be stored in a cool dry place away from any heat source. If you buy
old powder at a yard sale be very cautious before using it. If you see a red
dust scrap it. A sour smell might be another indication of defective powder. If
you use it that way results can be unpredictable and dangerous. Your best bet
is to dispose of it in a safe manner. Fresh powder is cheaper then gun and body
parts. Modern powders are not meant to
explode though under certain conditions that can happen, usually with severe
consequences. When you fire a gun the
powder burns at a rapid rate rather then explode. The rate is controlled by
various factors such as the coating and size of the grains. There are various
mixtures employed by powder makers to control the burn rate. That is why there
are so many powders available and it is imperative that you select the correct
ones for your particular application. For instance if you take a 30-06 case and
fill it with pistol powder and shoot it disaster is imminent. The handgun
powder which is way too fast for a rifle case so it will burn so quickly that
the bullet won’t have a chance to move down the barrel, hence a blowup. Be sure
you read the label on the container and don’t put powders in a incorrectly
labeled can. Do not mix powders as that is a recipe for disaster. There would be no way to predict what will
happen but it won’t be good.
When you
select a powder for reloading a certain cartridge always go to one of
the reloading manuals. You should have at least one, preferably more. It will let you know how much and what kind to
use. Do not exceed the max loads. Most manuals list from 10 to 15 selections for
each load. The reloading manuals are
available at any gun store plus online such as Amazon and Barnes. All of your
bullet and powder makers produce them
and they are all good. Examples are the Hodgdon, Sierra, Speer, Nosler, Barnes
and Hornady. It doesn’t hurt to have all of them.
3 comments:
I found the very useful information. it describes everything very transparently many thanks.
Reloading components for pistols include the carbide, steel, crimp, deluxe 4 and pistol powder. These dies have been remodeled many times to cope with rapid growth in demand for new and efficient performance.
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